Azelaic Acid: Acne-Prone Skin’s New Best Friend
Uncover the buzz around this under-the-radar ingredient and why it is a game changer for acne-prone skin!
Disclaimer: I do use affiliate links in this blog meaning that if you purchase anything through my affiliate links I receive commission at no additional cost to you! I only recommend products that I have heavily researched, tested and loved, and/or used for several years.
A couple weekends ago during my quarterly trek from the westside to The Shops at Santa Anita, I stumbled upon a new product that has already changed my skin’s life. I primarily go to stock up on J-beauty (Japanese beauty) skincare and makeup goods at Maison KOSÉ and ShibuyaLA (also referenced in my best J-beauty stores in Los Angeles post). As I was scanning the sheet mask aisle for one of my favorites, Quality 1st’s Derma Laser Ceramide 100 (which does wonders for repairing and firming the skin barrier), the word “NEW” jumped out at me on the Quality 1st Derma Laser Azelaic Acid 100 mask. As a certified early adopter, I did not think twice about adding it to my basket. However, I was completely unaware that I had just preemptively changed my skin’s life.
That night, I used the sheet mask for about five minutes as instructed. In the morning I woke up and noticed my skin looked subtly yet noticeably different in the mirror. I examined my skin practically in 5D with my giant ring light mirror and noticed that my skin tone was more even, skin texture was smoother, and acne scars seemed a hair lighter. As the Virgo detective that I am, this had me scrambling for my laptop and embarking on a deep rabbit hole of every article, reddit thread, and product on the market pertaining to azelaic acid.
By definition, azelaic acid is “a crystalline dicarboxylic acid (C9H16O4) that has antimicrobial properties and is applied topically in the treatment of acne and rosacea”. Judging by every publication date I could find, azelaic acid is a fairly new player in the skincare industry. Retinol, tretenoin, and salicyclic acid have become popular household names in the past decade, but I personally had never heard a mention of azelaic acid until I purchased the Quality 1st sheet masks (and I would consider myself a beauty trend “brain rotter”). The fact that WebMD added an azelaic acid page in May 2024 and Elle (UK) published a story on it as recently as December 2024 validates its growing prominence in both the medical and beauty industry. Though the US has the largest market share at the moment, Asia has the fastest projected growth in 2025 (which makes perfect sense, given that Quality 1st is one of Japan’s most popular beauty brands). In the US, the most popular avenue of awareness is through a dermatologist providing a prescription, not necessarily retail skincare products. Some Western brands have dipped their toes though; I compiled as many as possible in the The Comprehensive Azelaic Acid Edit down below (though I have only tested the Quality 1st products)!
After this research session and officially giving azelaic acid the “Nicole stamp of approval”, I decided to give the serum version a whirl: the Quality 1st Derma Laser Azelaic Acid 100 Ulthera AZ Serum. Unlike the one-and-done approach of the sheet mask (which I do still love and use from time to time), incorporating the serum into my daily routine proved even more effective. I found that the results were not only more potent, but the product was also significantly less harsh than any other acid-based treatments I've tried. While many potent exfoliants like glycolic or salicylic acid leave my skin feeling tight, tingly, or even cause a period of purging (the worst!), this serum did none of that. Its watery-like texture absorbed into my skin effortlessly with not even a hint of tingling or burning sensations. Over the course of a couple weeks, my complexion looked remarkably clearer and calmer, without any irritation, breakouts, or flakiness. These results solidified my excitement for azelaic acid, proving it's an ingredient that can deliver powerful results without the polarizing skin reactions so many of us have come to expect from active skincare. I now use it after my Valmont Luminosity Lumipeel (a PHA-based product that’s also very gentle) for double whammy results (my full skincare routine linked at the bottom of this post!).
My loyalty to azelaic acid was truly put to the test when, after just a few weeks, I accidentally dropped the entire serum bottle from my makeup vanity. I watched it shatter truly stunned, and was unable to save even a single drop. The devastation was real, and I immediately hopped in the car without a second thought to embark in my one hour journey to Arcadia to pick-up a new bottle.
My overall consensus?
My discovery of azelaic acid solidified a belief that has long been near and dear to my heart: acne-prone skin deserves effective, gentle, and transparent solutions (you can read a longer story on my acne journey in my non-comedogenic blog post). It genuinely sickens me to see brands promise consumers a "glow-up" with illusory and celebrity marketing, only for them to get the opposite: painful breakouts, a stripped skin barrier, and the crushing disappointment of wasted time and money. This is where the beauty industry needs a reality check.
My hope is that the growing popularity of ingredients like azelaic acid is part of a bigger beauty industry shift—one where brands are held accountable for their ingredient lists, and where science triumphs over clever marketing. It’s a (hopefully near) future I’m genuinely excited about where skin concern tailored products and skincare-infused makeup isn't just a trend, but an accessible norm for the everyday shopper (see my skincare-infused makeup blog post). We're all simply looking for that perfect routine, and it's on the brands to provide us with the tools to build it, not lead us down a path of triggered skin and broken promises!
Shop the Derma Laser Azelaic Acid products below!
The Comprehensive Azelaic Acid Edit:
For anyone loyal to the specific brands included! As with any new product incorporated into your routine, please do test patches and thorough research on the ingredients and reviews prior to purchase (I have not tested any of these products besides the Quality First ones)!
Nicole’s Skincare Routine:
Note: Some, but not all of these products are targeted for acne-prone skin. Please do your research beforehand!
